Avatar of archief

by archief

Fog Light (front)

May 3, 2009 in Informatie by archief

foglight

Avatar of archief

by archief

Derde Remlicht Lampjes

May 3, 2009 in Informatie by archief

Derde Remlicht Lampjes

Lampjes van je derde remlicht stuk?

De 3e remlichtlampjes kan je vervangen voor “G4 12v/10w” (origineel 8w).

Je kunt ze bij de Hema, Gamma, Karwei ect. kopen!

Avatar of archief

by archief

Adding Cruise Control to a late-model Chevy Corsica

May 3, 2009 in Informatie by archief

 I haven’t actually done this, but, of course, I have looked into it and I have some thoughts to share about it.

The Cruise Control system on the Corsica consists of several different pieces:

  • The ECM or the car’s “computer”
  • The Cruise Control module
  • The speed sensor (ECM may do this in late-model cars)
  • The throttle control stepper motor and throttle linkage cable
  • The Cruise Control controls, mounted on turn-signal stick on steering column
  • The brake switch
  • The clutch switch (manual transmission only)

As you can see the Cruise setup is pretty complicated, and adding Cruise Control to a car that left the factory without it is complicated.

How it works

An electronic, or “stepper”, motor is attached to the throttle control, in parallel with the gas pedal. In this way, either the Cruise Control stepper motor or the gas pedal controls the amount of air, and therefore gas, the engine receives.

The Cruise Control module controls the stepper motor, and therefore, the speed of the engine. When the car is first turned on, the Cruise Control motor is turned all the way “down”, so that only the gas pedal controls the speed of the engine.

When the Cruise Control is engaged by putting the Cruise Control switch in the “On” position and pressing the button on the end on the end of the turn signal stick, the Cruise Control module reads the car’s speed from either an external speed sensor, or from the car’s ECM. The module then turns the stepper motor to a location where it thinks the right speed should be. When you let off the gas to let the Cruise Control do it’s job, the motor holds the throttle where you left it. This makes the car keep a constant speed.

It’s a bit more complex that that, though. For example, if you go up a hill but don’t give the engine more throttle, the car will slow down. This is universally true, because it always takes more energy to go up a hill than to go down a hill or go over a level surface.

The Cruise Control module handles this situation by operating in closed-loop mode. By this technical mumbo-jumbo, I simply mean that the Cruise Control module is constantly re-checking the speed of the car to see if it is correct. If the speed is too low, the Cruise Control module uses the stepper motor to give the engine more throttle. If the speed is too high, the engine receives less throttle. However, this is done pretty slowly, so the car isn’t constantly jerking around.

(You can ignore this paragraph. It’s just me ranting.) By the way, I don’t particularly care for GM’s implementation of Cruise Control, on the L-Bodies, anyway. Because it is a closed loop system, it falls prey to a number of technical things. Anyone who took any classes on Closed-Loop Systems, Feedback Systems, etc., in college will tell you that these things are pretty complex, and I think GM didn’t quite make the grade. Specifically, the V6 engine is suddenly thrown into WOT (wide-open throttle) whenever vehicle speed drops quickly. This might be necessary on the I4 (inline four cylinder) cars, where power isn’t available at low RPMs, but on the V6 it is quite annoying. I guess they use the same Cruise Control module on both the I4 and V6 engines, for cost reasons. Someday I hope to implement my own cruise control module that handles this much better. If and when this happens, I will document it here thoroughly.

The brake and clutch switches are used to detect when the brake and or clutch is pressed. When the Cruise Control module detects either pedal being pressed, it immediately turns off the Cruise Control. This makes sense since if you are hitting the brakes, you don’t want the engine to keep trying to push the car forward. If you are hitting the clutch, it probably means you are shifting, and keeping the engine speed constant doesn’t make sense.

The RA (Resume Acceleration, whatever that means) switch setting allows you to go back to your previously set speed, after you have turned off the Cruise Control in some way (switch, brakes, clutch). For example, let’s says that you are driving at 65 mph, and you come upon a truck turning off, and you have to slow down. You hit the brakes, the cruise control turns off, and your car slows. Now the truck has turned and is out of the way, so you momentarily push the Cruise Control switch into the RA area. When you let go of the switch, it pops nack into On. The Cruise Control module then uses the stepper motor to give the engine more throttle until the car reaches 65 mph again.

You may not know that you can also adjust your cruise speed on the fly by using the RA section of the Cruise Control switch and the Cruise Control button. To set your speed higher, press and hold the Cruise Control switch into RA, and your car will speed up. When you let go, your vehicle will stay at it’s current speed. To drop your cruising speed, press and hold the Cruise Control button on the end of the turn signal stick. Again, when you let go of the button, your car will stay at it’s current speed. An as example, let’s use the turning truck again. Let’s say you have your cruise control set for 65 mph, and you see the truck ahead turning. You decide that you are far enough away that you don’t need to stop, but you should slow down. You hit the Cruise Control button on the end of the turn signal stick, and your vehicle slows. You let go when your car has slowed to 40 mph, and the Cruise Control module maintains this speed. In this hypothetical situation, this speed allows plenty of time for the truck to turn before you reach it. When the truck has turned off the road, you press and hold the Cruise Control switch into RA, and your vehicle speeds up again, until you reach 65 mph, where you release the button, and your car maintains 65 mph. You’ve slowed and sped up again, all without ever touching the gas pedal!

Where everything is

Here is a list of locations of each component of the Cruise Control system for the Chevy Corsica:

Component Location
Stepper motor Engine compartment, toward the passenger side of brake master cylinder
Cruise Control Module Under dash, on driver’s side, behind fuse box (impossible to access without removing dash)
Speed sensor Cruise Control module or ECM (?)
Cruise Control switch and button On turn signal stick on steering column

Adding cruise

You will need to purchase the Cruise Control module, stepper motor, switch and button controls for the turn signal stick, and possibly the speed sensor, if you have an older car. You should try to get these items from a salvage yard as they will be much cheaper than if you buy them from a GM dealer.

The first thing to add is the stepper motor and throttle linkage. Be sure to purchase the throttle linkage with the stepper motor!

The stepper motor bolts on to the firewall, in the direction of the passenger side from the brake master cylinder. The holes for mounting are already tapped in my car, so it’s a simply case of the bolting the stepper motor bracket on the firewall.

Next, connect the throttle linkage from the stepper motor to the throttle cable bracket. There should be an empty spot next to the throttle cable where the cruise cable can go in the bracket. If not, you will have to go back to the salvage yard and get one of these brackets.

The cruise cable attached to the little wheel beside the main throttle cable wheel. All you have to do is slide the cruise cable into it’s slot on the bracket, and put the ball on the end of the cable into it’s slot on the wheel.

Next you have to take the dash off. This sucks. You need to do this to put in the cruise module. It also makes it easier to drill a hole through the firewall to run the wires from the stepper motor to the cruise module. Unfortunately, we won’t cover taking out the dash here because it’s it’s a huge pain. You will need to take off the steering wheel (and therefore, airbag), and probably at least one door, both seats and the center console. Not pretty.

There are at least two wires that you have to run from the ECM, located behind the glove box, to the cruise module in the dash. You also have to connect the wires from the stepper motor to the cruise module, after you have drilled your hole in the firewall.

While you have the dash off, you should also add switches to your brake and clutch (if necessary) pedals. Run wires from these switches to the cruise module.

While you have the steering column apart, you should replace your turn signal stick with one that has the Cruise Control buttons on it. Run the wires from the Cruise Control buttons down the column, and when you put the column back in, plug them into the cruise module.

Avatar of archief

by archief

Beretta Model Run & Production Numbers

May 3, 2009 in Informatie by archief

1991

No. Produced

1992

No. Produced

1993

No. Produced

Medium Blue White
Black
Turquoise
Medium Garnet Bright Red
Medium Gray
2.3 Quad 4
2.2 I-4
3.1 V-6

8,505
15,315
8,066
10,768
9,574
17,639
1
3,010
47,181
19,677

Light Gray
White
Maui Blue
Light Driftwood
Black
Turquoise
Malachite
Medium Garnet
Medium Quasar
Bright Red
2.3 Quad 4
2.2 I-4
3.1 V-6

3,546
5,888
4,997
483
4,359
7,180
1,559
5,201
7,306
11,932
1,656
10,534
40,261

Light Gray
Bright White
Dark Green
Maui Blue
Black
Aqua Medium Garnet Medium Quasar
Bright Red
MFI Quad 4

1,488
7,764
1,029
1,867
3,582
8,725
3,829
5,061
8,918
621

 

1994

No. Produced

1995

No. Produced

1996

No. Produced

Light Gray
Bright White
Dark Green
Med. Adriatic
Black
Bright Aqua
Medium Garnet
Black Rose
Bright Red
2.3 Quad 4
2.2 I-4
3.1 SFI V-6

1,562
9,513
3,359
4,781
5,614
13,683
5,030
8,674
12,061
896
15,745
47,636

Light Gray
White
Dark Green
Med. Adriatic
Light Adriatic
Black
Black Rose
Bright Red
Cayenne Red
Raspberry
2.2 I-4
3.1 SFI V-6

1,911
11,566
5,886
5,993
3,189
8,614
10,057
14,024
7,243
4,333
23,506
49,310

Light Gray
White
Dark Green
Med. Adriatic
Light Adriatic
Black
Black Rose
Bright Red
Cayenne Red
Raspberry
2.2 I-4
3.1 SFI V-6

1,124
4,269
4,269
3,424
1,638
4,967
5,990
7,978
5,503
1,455
12,163
31,136

 

 

 

Avatar of archief

by archief

TQ vs MPH

May 3, 2009 in Informatie by archief

tq_vs_mph

Avatar of archief

by archief

Technisch Woordenboek Engels – nederlands

May 3, 2009 in Informatie by archief

Avatar of archief

by archief

Beretta Ground effects GTZ, GTU, Z26

May 3, 2009 in Informatie by archief

Klik op de afbeelding voor een vergroting

ground-effects-gtz-gtu-z26

Avatar of archief

by archief

Codes Fout meldingen (uitlezen ECM)

May 3, 2009 in Informatie by archief

De ECM (injectiecomputer) diagnose werkt als volgt:

In de connector die onder je dashboard uitsteekt zitten een aantal pinnetjes in twee rijen. Je zorgt dat de auto niet op contact staat, en dat de sleutels niet in het contactslot zitten. Verbind nu van de bovenste rij de meest rechtse 2 pinnetjes met elkaar d.m.v. een paperclip of stukkie koperdraad.

Doe nu de sleutel in het contactslot en zet de auto op accessoire-stand (dat is de laatste stand voordat je de motor echt zou starten). Je koelfan onder de motorkap zal nu aanspringen (zorg dat er dus geen gereedschap op, onder of tegenaan ligt) en de ECM zal in diagnose stand gaan. Dit wordt aangegeven door een knipper-code. Het lampje SES (service engine soon) dient hiervoor. In de oudere modellen is dat het oranje lampje met dat motorblokje-symbool erop.

Code 12 is diagnose-stand. Code 12 wordt weergegeven door één enkele korte flits, gevolgd door een korte pauze en dan 2 korte flitsen, dus 1 – 2 … code 12 Code 42 zou dus worden weer gegeven als 4 korte flitsen en dan 2 korte flitsen. Simpel systeem… elke code wordt 3x herhaald. Dus een ‘cleane’ Beretta zal 3x code 12 geven, gevolgd door een ietsje langere pauze (1 a 2 seconde) en indien er verder niks mis is dan geeft ie weer 3x code 12.

Volgen er meer foutcode’s dan dien je deze even te noteren (hou een papiertje+pen bij de hand). Let wel, het is een diagnose check die de sensoren aan je ECM afloopt ! je krijgt niet te horen of je bandenspanning goed is, of dat je misschien een knipperlichtje hebt dat het niet doet…

Voorbeeld: Ik had een code 32 wat betekent dat de EGR-klep sensor verkeerde signalen krijgt. Geen probleem, nieuwe EGR-klep en probleem zou goed moeten zijn.

Echter moet je dan wel de ECM resetten om te zien of dit probleem verholpen is !!!!

De ECM reset je als volgt:

Zet allereerst altijd even een eventueel aanwezige alarminstallatie uit !
Draai de min-pool (-) van de accu los en laat deze een minuutje of wat los hangen. Indien hij ver genoeg mee kan, kan je hem even tegen de plus-pool houden zodat je alle aanwezige lekstromen en condensatoren even leegmaakt, dan wel opheft. Maar 2 minuten los hangen met de deur open doet het ook perfect. De ECM heeft nu dus geen spanning meer en weet dus niet meer welke sensor er slecht was en/of wat het stationair toerental moet zijn bij welke temperaturen.

Dat was de reset, maar er hoort wel een korte inleer-procedure achteraan. Sluit de min-pool weer aan en start de motor. Je zal merken dat je motor ‘onrustig’ doet en zelf gaat zoeken naar een goed toerental.
Dit kan even duren. Laat de motor echter draaien totdat de koelfan (die grote ventilator tegen de radiateur) zelf aanspringt en weer uitspringt. Op dat moment zijn alle sensoren die aan je ECM hangen weer netjes van informatie verzien. Liever gezegd, je ECM is weer netjes van alle info verzien die hij krijgt van de sensoren.

Zou je na de reset van de ECM meteen gaan rijden dan krijgt de ECM waardes die met een belastte motor zijn verkregen. Dat is niet erg, alleen zal dat kunnen veroorzaken dat je onrustige stationaire toerentallen hebt of stotteren.

Ik zal van deze handleiding een zogeheten sticky maken aangezien deze vraag nogal eens terug komt de laatste tijd

Succes met het hot-wire-effect allemaal maar wees wel voorzichtig aangezien onzorgvuldigheid toch ervoor kan zorgen dat je je ECM uitbakt !!!

Aanvulling op dit verhaal.
die paperclip of stukje koperdraad vervangen door een 10 k­ ohm. Dan weet je zeker dat je ECM niet het loodje gaat leggen, maar de weerstand.

Als je een Beretta/Corsica hebt van 91+, dan heb je een airbag en ABS. Ook hier kun je de foutcode uitlezen. Als je in de stekker onder het dashboard kijkt zie je meerdere aansluitpennen zitten.
Om je airbag foutcode uit te lezen gebruik je pennen K & A.
Om je ABS foutcode uit te lezen gebruik je pennen H & A.

het werkt hetzelfde als de ECM foutcode uitlezing.

Avatar of archief

by archief

Area under curve

May 3, 2009 in Informatie by archief

area_under_curve

Avatar of archief

by archief

Afkortingen onder de motorkap

May 3, 2009 in Informatie by archief

ECM = Electronic contol mudule
IAC = Idle Air Control
PCV = Crankcase Vent Valve
TCC = Torque Converter Clutch
DIS = Direct Ignition System
MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure
O2 = Oxygen
TPS = Throttle Position Sensor
CTS = Coolant Temperature Sensor
MAT = Manifold Air Temperature
EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation
IAT = Intake Air Temperature